Wednesday, 14 September 2011

Isola Maggiore - Population: 25 (Wednesday, September 14)

Always a place to explore. Today Dave and Cath headed out to Montepulciano (Jim and I plan to explore there on Friday), Donna and David were heading out for a random drive, and Jim and I were headed for Lake Trasimeno, but a slightly altered route from the one Cath and Dave took yesterday, driving around the lake.
Lake Trasimeno is the largest lake in Italy with a 45 km shoreline (sorta' small when you come from the shores of Lake Ontario). The lake, itself, has an extensive history - Etruscan gardens and graveyards, the stage for Hannibal's greatest victory over Rome.......and the history goes on. Our destination today was the historic island of Isola Maggiore in the northern part of the lake. As we flew in to Florence on our crazy Al Italia flight we could actually see the lake to the east. The lake can also be viewed by climbing the ridge behind our villa. We were eager to visit.
The ferries to Isola Maggiore leave from the absolutely charming town of Passignano sul Trasimeno which is dotted with bright umbrella'd cafes along it's Trasimeno shoreline.
Isola Maggiore is about a 15 minute ferry ride from the mainland. It is said to have been visited by St. Francis one stormy night in 1211. What is of interest is that the tiny hamlet on the island has not changed since the 15th C. However, the population, once around 300, is now only 25. Yup! I said 25. Jim and I wandered through what felt like a ghost town. Very few of the architecturally beautiful buildings have been maintained. What a waste! We actually felt a bit sad. A trail from the village leads up throughnthe olive groves to the highest point on the island. The island is famed for it's lace and embroidery production. Ironically, then original instructor for this craft came from Ireland.
We spent about two hours exploring and then headed back to the mainland for lunch.
The drive back to the villa was truly Tuscany at it's best -acres of olive groves and vineyards.
Tonight's dinner is in. Cath is cooking. The kitchen smells fabulous. Tomorrow is our cooking class (can't wait) and then Friday, I am on for dinner.
A domani!

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