On the front of Porta Camollia, the most important Sienese gate, are the above words from my title. Translated from Latin, these words mean, "Siena opens her heart out to you much wider than this door!" How true. Siena for Jim and I has been like a giant hug. She is a warm, friendly city of great grace and we have grown to love her.
We awoke this morning to the sun shining of the distant cypress trees and umber Tuscan homes. How beautiful a scene.
After another wonderful breakfast al fresco, we headed back to Il Campo (Piazza del Campo). The piazza is laid out in the form of a shell, paved with brick in a herring-bone pattern and subdivided into nine sections . Grey stone slabs form a border around it all. Il Campo is truly the living, breathing heart os Siena and the pulse is a vibrant one Locals and tourists alike gather in the piazza to sit in the sunlight or to enjoy a cappuccino in one of the surrounding cafes. Jim and I watched a wedding party leave the City Hall today with much cheering from both guests and piazza onlookers.
At the bottom end of Il Campo sits Palazzo Publico (The City Hall). Within City Hall is the Civic Museum. I had been excited to visit this because of two Lorenzetti frescoes - Effects of Good and Bad Government. The frescoes were magnificent and did not disappoint. Jim and I spent quite a bit of time identifying all of the details contained in these incredible works of art. I know that this all sounds horriifically boring, but these two frescoes poitively speak to the viewer. For example in Bad Government, a horned, fanged, wine-drinking devil (Jim emphatically states that this is not modeled after him) sets the vices - Avarice and Vainglory - loose. Arsonists torch homes and fields, soldiers rape and pillage.....get the picture?
From here, Jim and I visited the Siena Duomo. Meredith, I remember you speaking about this amazing structure after your trip to Italy. I am not a huge fan of exploring every duomo in every Italian town (yawn!!!), but the Siena Duomo should be a "do not miss" on any Siena visitor's schedule. With its extravagant Gothic facade, its inlaid floors (both art and pattern), its majestic double dome, and (for me) its sculptures by Bernini and Michelangelo, it held Jim and I in its enthrall for over two hours. In this case, I am thankful that we opted for the audio tour. Interesting is the fact that Siena's original plans were to build an even grander duomo (how could that be possible?), but a devasting plague in the 14th. century killed Siena's financial ability and will to complete their vision.
We spent the short latter part of the afternoon making a grocery list for tomorrow when we take over a villa in Cortona. Cathy and David, Donna and David (coming in from Venice and Florence) will join us in Cortona. Our villa is in the mountains just on the outskirts of the hilltown of Cortona. I am not sure that Cortona will ever be the same.
We are off for a special dinner tonight to say goodbye to beautiful Siena.
Arriverdela!
Make sure you say hi to Bramasole in Cortona!!
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