We said our final goodbyes to Pisa this morning and headed for the ancient Etruscan town of Volterra in the western part of Tuscany.
There were two routes by which to leave Pisa, one not favored because of it's proximity to the airport. You guessed it. Given our combined navigational skills, we managed to end up on the airport route. Driving through the town of Ponsacco presented it's own issues as we seemed to circle the same tiny streets more than once. "Didn't we just see that?" We needed our old t-shirts from sailing - 'Quit Yelling At Me' and 'I'm Not Yelling'. How long have we been married?
Have you ever experienced Italian drivers? It is if they have been born with speed and Laborghinis in their blood. Picture Jim and I driving the tortuously twisting and steep roads that approach Volterra, one side, retaining walls holding back the cliffs and the other, sheer drops to the fields below. Sitting right on our tail was a conga line of Italian drivers in a rush to get anywhere. Jim finally found a small spot to pull over and allow them by. Vrmmmmmm! We were left in their dust, but could now enjoy the spectacular scenery. I need to say that at no time was Jim traveling even slightly under the speed limit.
The only way to describe Volterra is sheer drama. It has been built on a ridge 545 meters above sea level and is surrounded by walls - one Etruscan, the other medieval. Volterra has not yet been touched by the frenetic pace of life found in places like San Gimignano, etc. Arriving in Volterra is like stepping back into the past. Etruscan influences, tiny medieval streets and a distinct lack of many tourists add to it's charm. I hate to think how many photos we actually took.
The entrance to the town is an imposing Etruscan arch. Thanks to the local citizens who buried it in stones from the main street in 1944 to prevent the Nazis from blowing it up as a means to stop the advance of the allies, you can walk through this impressive arch today. After we were through the arch we did a mini walking tour, visiting most of the historic sites. It's sorta' like st. John's, Chris - all the roads are steep and UP! How does that happen?
At the time of the Etruscan civilization, Volterra was the place where working with alabaster was started. Alabaster is a soft and fragile stone, mined underground, and used in lamps, lighted sculptures, etc. because of it's beautiful translucence. There are a number of artisans in Volterra attempting to keep the craft alive in traditional workshops. Jim and I happened down a tiny and narrow walkway and stepped into 'alab'Arte' - Georgio Finazzo's workshop. It was like stepping back in time. He is using historic work utensils while standing in the white dust of completed works. What a picture he presents and his work is stunning. He warmly invited us into his workshop and spent time explaining alabaster and working with it. From here, we did a Rick Steeves thing. La Vena di Vino is a wine tasting hole in the wall. Two guys have devoted themselves to wine and share it with a fun-loving passions. Each day they open six or eight bottles and after a mini lecture, serve you choice by the glass, pairing It with Truscan munchies.
Painful legs and quads eventually drove us back to our charming hotel at the Etruscan Gate. We will head back UP into town tonight to have cinghiale for dinner. I'll leave that to you to figure out!
Ciao!!
No comments:
Post a Comment