I am an avid fan of two artists - Bernini, the sculptor and Caravaggio, the painter. I frankly admit that had I lived in the early 1600's, I would have been a Bernini groupie. Did they have fan clubs back then?
A regret after our last visit to Rome was that we did not see the Borghese Gallery. We had not realized that reservations were required. Many experts say that if you can only visit one museum during your Roman visit, make it this one. And so, we got smart, booking months in advance. Visits are strictly limited in number of visitors and time spent in the Galleria - 2 hours! The system works far better than that in Florence's Uffizi.
This morning we hiked up to the Galleria, leaving our hotel near St. Peter's, winding our way along the Tiber, crossing at Ponte St Margherita into Piazza del Popolo and then up into the Borghese Gardens. Jo, I know you will appreciate the distance covered!!
Piazza del Popolo is a huge Roman square. It is anchored in it's centre by a 10-story obelisk. The obelisk was initially brought from the Ramses II temple and erected in Circus Maximus where the infamous chariot races took place. It was ultimately moved to the piazza. How, I wonder, did they move and erect this monument twice? There was no Amherst Crane company, no large flat-bed trucks. These questions constantly move through my mind when it comes to Roman ingenuity.
The Borghese Gardens are Rome's version of Central Park. As such, they provide a green, shady and peaceful oasis from the madness that is sometimes this crazy, wonderful city.
Within the Gardens is the Borghese Galleria. You are required to be present 30 minutes before your appointment. This early arrival is to prepare you for entry - no cameras, no bags, no backpacks, no purses. Just you, your audio guide and the most magnificent art.
I am not going to bore you with a description of all we saw. Bernini's David, although less famous that Michelangelo's earlier version, is actually a finer piece. I do have to mention one piece which Bernini felt was his greatest achievement - Apollo and Daphne ( great name, eh?). I am now going to quote Rick Steeves in his description. "...... capturing a thrilling, action-filled moment. In the mythological story, Apollo races after Daphne. Just as he's about to catch her, she calls to her father to save her. Magically, her fingers begin to sprout leaves, her toes become roots, her skin turns to bark, and she transforms into a tree. Frustrated Apollo will end up with a handful of leaves." Jim and I spent at least a half hour in this room with this sculpture. It is truly a masterpiece. The audio tour mentions that the team cleaning the sculpture noted that the leaves carved by Bernini are so thin that when touched ring in the manner of crystal glSs being pinged. Again, my mind asks how. How did Bernini look at that block of marble and see this? How did Bernini, using the limited equipment of the time, carve a piece so fine? I am in awe.
The Caravaggio Room contains many of his famous paintings. We had the luxury of not too many tourists and the time to feast on his gritty, moody representations of the time.
Back to St. Peter's Basillica we hiked. This visit was to take in Michelangelo's Pieta and other Bernini works.
Sore feet and legs drove us back to our hotel. And now some fun began.
Judy Gage is a friend of mine, dating back to old Royal LePage days. Jim and I became good friends of Judy and Ray's, even visiting them in Victoria after their move west. The last time we saw Judy and Ray was in 2009 when they visited at Christmastime. I am a terrible communicator (to which George and Mary Buckrell will attest!). Jude and I talk once or twice a year as our lives take us in different directions. Judy is on Facebook, but rarely uses it. For some unknown reason the day I posted "8 weeks and counting..." on Facebook and then replied to Melissa's query with an explanation of our trip, Judy accessed FB. She called me immediately at home to find out when and where we were going to be in Italy. To make a long story short, we were scheduled to be in Rome at the same time. Now!! Without telling Ray, she booked the same hotel. Jim figured out what was happening, but Ray remained in the dark. Upon our return to the hotel, we asked the front desk staff if the Ego's were yet here. The answer was that they had just arrived. Jim grabbed a bottle on wine and knocked on their door, "Servizo di camera" (room service). When Ray opened the door, all hell broke loose. Lots of hugs and kisses, laughter, a bottle of wine on the roof garden and then dinner last night. What fun! It has been a great day!
A domani!
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